Bruger:Jensga/sandkasse2

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The English girl band the Paper Dolls at Schiphol Airport in 1968

The shape of miniskirts in the 1960s was distinctive. They were not the squeezingly tight skirts designed to show off every curve that 1950s sheath skirts had been, nor were they shortened versions of the tightly belted, petticoat-bolstered 1950s circle skirt. In the 1990s and later, you would occasionally see exhibitions on the sixties present vintage miniskirts pulled in tight against gallery mannequins, but sixties miniskirts were not worn that way. They were not worn tight. Sixties miniskirts were simply-constructed, uninhibiting, slightly flared A-line shapes, with some straight and tapered forms seen in the early years of their existence.[1] This shape was seen as deriving from two forms of the 1950s: (1) the chemise dress/sack dress,[2] attributed to Givenchy in 1957[3][4] but presaged by Karl Lagerfeld in 1954[5] and Mary Quant in 1956,[6] a waistless, tapered column that became the shift dress in the early sixties when it began to be made straight or slightly flared rather than tapered,[7][8][9] and (2) the trapeze dresses popularized by Yves Saint Laurent in 1958[10] that were a variation of Dior's 1955 A-line,[11][12][13] both of a geometric triangular shaping. In silhouette, the minidresses of the mid-1960s were basically abbreviated versions[14] of the shift dress and trapeze dress,[15][16] with Paco Rabanne's famous metal and plastic minidresses of 1966 and '67 following the trapeze line and most of Rudi Gernreich's following the shift line. Mary Quant and other British designers, as well as Betsey Johnson in the US, also showed minidresses that resembled elongated rugby jerseys, body-skimming but not tight. When skirts alone, they tended to sit on the hips rather than holding the waist, called hipster minis if they were really low on the hips. The fashionable forms of the microminis of the later 1960s were also not tight, often looking somewhat tunic-like[17] and in fabrics like Qiana.

In addition, sixties miniskirts were not worn with high heels but with flats or low heels,[18][19][20][21] for a natural stance, a natural stride, and to enhance the fashionable child-like look of the time,[22][23][24][25] seen as a reaction to 1950s come-hither artifice like needle heels, constrained waists, padded busts, and movement-inhibiting skirts. The designer Mary Quant was quoted as saying that "short short skirts" indicated youthfulness, which was seen as desirable, fashion-wise.[26]

In the UK, by shortening the skirts to less than 24 inchs (610 mm) they were classed as children's garments rather than adult clothes. Children's clothing was not subject to purchase tax whereas adult clothing was.[27] The avoidance of tax meant that the price was correspondingly less.[28][29]

During the late 1960s, as most skirts got shorter and shorter,[30] designers began presenting a few alternatives.[31][32] Calf-length midi-skirts were introduced in 1966–67,[33] and floor-length maxi-skirts appeared around the same time,[34] after being seen on hippies first around 1965–66. Like with miniskirts, these were overwhelmingly casual in feel and simply constructed to a two-straight-side-seams A-line shape. Women in the late sixties welcomed these new styles as options but didn't necessarily wear them, feeling societal pressure to shorten their skirts instead.[35][36]

(Decades later, starting in the late nineties, the term midi-skirt would be expanded to refer to any calf-length skirt from any era, including skirts of that length from the 1930s, 1950s, and 1980s of any shape,[37] and the term maxi-skirt would be expanded to apply to any floor-length skirt from any era, including ballgowns, but that was not the case during a period from the late 1960s to the 1980s, when the term midi-skirt only applied to casual, simply-cut A-line calf-length skirts of the late sixties and earliest seventies and the term maxi-skirt only applied to casual, simply-cut A-line floor-length skirts of the late sixties and earliest seventies. Even the full, calf-length skirts worn from the mid-seventies to the early eighties were not called midi-skirts at the time,[38][39] as that was by 1974 considered a passė term restricted only to a specific shape of skirt from the late sixties and earliest seventies.)

As designers attempted to require women to switch to midi-skirts in 1969 and 1970, women responded by ignoring them,[40] continuing to wear minis and microminis[41] and, even more, turning to trousers[42] like those endorsed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1968, a trend that would dominate the 1970s.

  1. ^ Hyde, Nina (1982-05-10). "Miniskirts: The Height of Fashion". The Washington Post. Hentet 2022-05-10. In its original incarnation, the mini was different in cut, often narrow and structured with stiff seams a la André Courrèges.
  2. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1978-07-12). "Seek Not the Past, Lest It Arrive". The New York Times. s. C12. Hentet 2022-04-04. ...[T]he waistless chemise sounded the knell of the old order and brought fashion into the modern era.
  3. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1979-09-14). "It Was Givenchy's Hour Again". The New York Times: 6. Hentet 2022-03-18. Along with Balenciaga, [Givenchy] introduced the chemise in the summer of 1957.
  4. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1956-57". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 242. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Christian Dior's last collection...[was] a refinement of Givenchy's 'sack' called the 'spindle' or 'chemmy dress'
  5. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1946-1956". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 189. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. In 1954 the young Karl Lagerfeld's entry in a competition organized by the Wool Secretariat was the epitome of the youthful chemise. The style that was to be abbreviated in the sixties had arrived.
  6. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1957-1967". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 240. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. When the shift shape was shown in Paris salons in 1957, the fashion world began to take [Mary Quant's] Bazaar seriously, for the new line had appeared there eighteen months earlier.
  7. ^ "Dress, fall/winter 1965-66, Yves Saint Laurent". The Met Collection. ...[T]he sack dress evolved in the 1960s into a modified form, the shift...
  8. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1970-09-18). "Saint Laurent, Valentino, Ungaro: 3 Avenues to High Fashion". The New York Times: 60. Hentet 2022-04-04. ...[T]he chemise first burst upon the scene in 1957, nurtured by Givenchy and Balenciaga...[I]t made...waves...because dresses lost their belts....[I]t took a couple of years before the chemise became every woman's uniform. Hemlines had to rise...They were mid‐calf at the beginning. Rise they did, through most of the nineteen‐sixties....[A]bout half way through, it changed its name. It was called the shift.
  9. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1963". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 273. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The fashionable dress was...the childlike shift, occasionally cut out at the sides or back...
  10. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 254. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The dress sloped down from the shoulders to a widened hem just below the knee, maintaining a definite geometric line through precise tailoring.
  11. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1948-1959". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 204. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. ...[W]ith his first collection,...[Saint Laurent] launched the [T]rapeze line – not too different from Dior's A line, but just different enough.
  12. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1955". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 239. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Dior produces his new A line, a triangle widened from a small head and shoulders to a full pleated or stiffened hem.
  13. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1955". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 230. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Dior's...'A' line consisted of coats, suits and dresses flared out into wide triangles from narrow shoulders. The waistline was the cross bar of the A and could be positioned either under the bust in an Empire manner or low down on the hips.
  14. ^ Doonan, Simon (2001-10-01). "Zee Future Fashion Eez Cool! Ungaro, Gernreich Still Cut It". The New York Observer. Hentet 2022-01-24. I...begged [Emanuel Ungaro] to decode the enigma of space-age chic...'Courrèges et moi...work[ed] for Balenciaga....Balenciaga was obsessed with cut and structure and architecture....[W]e chop 20 centimeters off the skirt, and, voila, le space age'.
  15. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1966". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 292. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Everywhere, from the couture to the ready-to-wear, the favourite dress is the briefest triangle, taking no account of the waist.
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1966". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 287. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[T]he mini dominated the spring collections in all the fashion centres. The silhouette fell from the neck or shoulders to a free-swinging hem...
  17. ^ Laver, James (1969). "Chapter Ten: The Last Thirty Years". The Concise History of Costume and Fashion. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. s. 266. ISBN 0-684-13744-5. ...[A] young woman of today bears the closest possible resemblance to a young man of the medieval period...i.e. the doublet-and-hose of (say) 1490.
  18. ^ Hyde, Nina (1982-05-10). "Miniskirts: The Height of Fashion". The Washington Post. Hentet 2022-05-10. Short white 'go-go' boots or natural-colored leg hose and low-heeled shoes were the thing to wear with minis.
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1957-1967". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 245. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Every fashion-conscious girl was wearing the mini, flat pumps and the Vidal Sassoon haircut and pale lipstick.
  20. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1964". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 280. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Casual skirts adopted the...knee-baring hem, and were worn with...white textured stockings and [flat,] silver-buckled pilgrim shoes.
  21. ^ Peake, Andy (2018). "Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir". Made for Walking. Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. s. 57. ISBN 978-0-7643-5499-1. For the most part, all these boots were flat-heeled...
  22. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1957-1967". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 241. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The fashion was to look as child-like as possible – coltish, long legs, flat torso and attention focused on a big baby-eyed head.
  23. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1957-1967". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 244. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. Courrèges's 'Space Age' collection of 1964 combined...Parisian traditions...with London's daring young styles. Using ice pinks and blues against stark white, his garments were cut into simple shapes outlined in welted seams...childlike in their short, shift-shape simplicity and worn with...flat toddler sandals.
  24. ^ Peake, Andy (2018). "The Age of the Boot". Made for Walking. Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. s. 72. ISBN 978-0-7643-5499-1. One effect of the sixties fashion 'youthquake' was a desire on the part of designers to make grown women look like little girls.
  25. ^ Tilberis, Elizabeth, red. (1991). "Vogue 1960-1969". Vogue 75 Years. London, England: The Condé Nast Publications Ltd.: 97. Before long, grown women were...attempting knock-kneed childish postures, their toes turned in, in little flat shoes.
  26. ^ Fodnotefejl: Ugyldigt <ref>-tag; ingen tekst er angivet for referencer med navnet gilmore
  27. ^ premierludwig (19 juli 2005). "Trends Of The Mid-1960s workshop". Vintage Fashion Guild. Hentet 31 januar 2017.{{cite web}}: CS1-vedligeholdelse: Dato automatisk oversat (link)
  28. ^ Livraghi, Giancarlo (2002). "The pitfalls of fashion". off-line. Hentet 31 januar 2017.{{cite web}}: CS1-vedligeholdelse: Dato automatisk oversat (link)
  29. ^ Thomas, Pauline (2014). "The 60s Mini Skirt 1960s Fashion History". Fashion-Era.com. Hentet 31 januar 2017.{{cite web}}: CS1-vedligeholdelse: Dato automatisk oversat (link)
  30. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1967-68". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 296. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. The micro skirt shrinks even more...
  31. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1969". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. s. 300. ISBN 0-14-00-4955-X. Skirts are mini, knee-length, midi or maxi, 'Everything goes so long as it works for you'.
  32. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1969". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 311. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. The hemline was irrelevant; the length of a woman's skirt now depended on personal taste. The international collections endorsed variety, showing minis, midis, maxis and trousers.
  33. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1966". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 291. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. ...[T]he midi had definitely arrived...The hemline was only sixteen inches from the ground...The intention...was to train the...eye down from the mini to the midi by showing one over the other.
  34. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1968". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 308. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. By the autumn the maxi coat had arrived in London...
  35. ^ Hyde, Nina (1982-05-10). "Miniskirts: The Height of Fashion". The Washington Post. Hentet 2022-04-04. ...[In] the late 1960s,...minis were de rigueur and lots of grown women as well as kids followed the fashion and shortened their hems several inches above the knee.
  36. ^ Barmash, Isidore (1970-03-15). "Minis or Midis? Girls and Stores Dying to Know". The New York Times: 137. Hentet 2022-04-04. Women who not long ago gnashed their teeth over the miniskirt, wondering if they dared to imitate their daughters and wear it, finally decided only a relatively few months ago that they would risk it. The result was the moderate‐mini, the one to two‐inch rise above the knee, which is pretty much what is being worn on Main Street America today.
  37. ^ Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly (2014-09-09). "The Midi Skirt, Divider of Nations". The Atlantic. Hentet 2022-04-04. Today, the term 'midi' is applied to knee-length skirts as often as tea-length skirts, and pencil skirts as well as flowing A-lines. But it originally denoted a specific, unforgiving shape: not mid-leg, but mid-calf, widening from the waist to four inches below the knee.
  38. ^ Salmans, Sandra (1974-08-25). "Seventh Avenue". The New York Times: 96. Hentet 2021-12-01. Although the latest [1974] look—known as the Big Look...—is decidedly longer than recent hemlines, both its proponents and its adversaries say that any resemblance to the midi is purely coincidental. 'You can't compare it to the midi, which was just a longer skirt,' maintains Norman Wechsler, president of Saks Fifth Avenue.
  39. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1974-02-04). "Why Nobody's Paying Much Attention to Spring Couture". The New York Times: 24. Hentet 2022-06-22. What makes [1974 long skirts] different from the long skirts of 1970? They're wider and consequently, more graceful and easier to wear.
  40. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1987-04-25). "Women are Stealing a March on Short Skirts". The New York Times: 1. Hentet 2022-04-04. The sudden drop in hemlines in 1970 caused a revolt in this country against fashion dictatorship....In the collections for fall 1970, hemlines descended abruptly, by as much as 18 inches, from mid-thigh to the lower calf....The protests were immediate. Women declared that they would no longer be dictated to by fashion designers. They refused to buy long skirts. Stores suffered and many manufacturers went out of business.
  41. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1968". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. s. 308. ISBN 0-670-80172-0. American women had not accepted the midi or maxi hemlines, preferring the leggy mini...
  42. ^ Morris, Bernadine (1987-04-25). "Women are Stealing a March on Short Skirts". The New York Times: 1. Hentet 2022-04-04. Fashionable women everywhere turned to pants....Trousers continued as part of the fashion uniform...
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